Showing posts with label Turkey. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Turkey. Show all posts

Thursday, September 12, 2013

Cappadocia, Pamukkale and Ephesus

For the rest of the photos from this segment, follow this link:
https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/103620108216329120374/albums/5942301521058107937

In between our days in Istanbul, we flew out to spend a few days among the rock pinnacles of Cappadocia. I had high expectations for Cappadocia, especially after seeing pictures of hot air balloons drifting over strange rock formations.

Well, Cappadocia lived up to the hype. We did experience a sunrise hot air balloon ride, but Cappadocia had so much more to offer. For many centuries settlers (including early Christian religious refugees) have lived in cave dwellings carved out of the soft rocks. A lot of these are still intact and open for visitors to explore. The Byzantine Christian settlers also left remnants of many temples, some with well preserved wall paintings. There are also enormous underground cities left from this time. Some cities extended more than five stories underground, and were capable of housing thousands of residents for extended periods of time. In addition to all that, the region also offers countless walking trails through its valleys, each with different styles of rock formations and landscape.
We went for a walk in Rose Valley and found many abandoned houses. 
Dave and I at the viewpoint in Goreme
Sunrise hot air ballon ride. There were hundreds of ballons up at the same time!
Hot air balloons are huge! It took a whole team of professionals to get one up and running. The basket for this balloon fit about a dozen people. 
We also had our best meal in Turkey in Goreme, the town where we stayed in Cappadocia. An elderly woman made fresh turkish bread right in front of us in an outdoor oven. It was one of the most delicious breads I’ve ever had in my life - warm, chewy, soft, airy...all at the same time. It went perfectly with the hummus and eggplant salad that we ordered. My entree, eggplant with minced pork, was so simple but so tasty. We ate on gorgeous patio with eye-popping views of the Goreme valley.
Yummm...eggplant with minced pork. 
Then in two quick days, we saw two of the highlights of our trip - the white travertine pools of Pamukkale and the ancient ruins of Ephesus. Pamukkale, which literally means cotton castle,  is famous for its white terraced pools filled with hot spring water. Many tourists walk through them bare-footed, and some choose to bath in them. The pools were magical on the warm, sunny day that we were there, especially with the valleys and surrounding mountains in the background. There isn't too much else to do in Pamukkale though, so half a day there is about enough.
Tourists are allowed to walk through the cascade of pools, so I had to do it twice :) It takes about 40 minutes to walk its entire length. 
This gives you a sense of how large the terraces are!
Ephesus is the largest collection ancient Roman ruins in the world, even though it’s only about 15% excavated! Walking down the main street, you can really get a sense of how the city was laid out. It had everything from public baths, town halls, and theaters, to a central district where the upper class lived. The highlight for me was the recently excavated residential area, called the Terrace Houses. You can clearly see the various rooms of each house, and, in many places, decorative details on the floors and walls. These houses were nice! They had large rooms, tall ceilings, and beautiful artwork.
The main street of Ephesus
Initially I was worried about doing Cappadocia, Pamukkale, and Ephesus in five days, but we saw everything we wanted to see and didn't feel rushed at all. It did involve an early morning flight, an overnight bus, and a late night flight. I’m so glad we did it! And because we have a lot of bags with us on this trip, we choose to leave our extra bags at our hotel in Istanbul, and went back for them at the end of our trip in Turkey. 

Istanbul

Follow this link for more pictures from Istanbul:
https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/103620108216329120374/albums/5939630633223799889

We landed in Istanbul after a red-eye flight from Nairobi. Immediately we noticed the modern airport, paved highways, and beautiful greenery lining the streets - in stark contrast to the dusty and bumpy roads of Kenya and its airport run out of makeshift tents (they are recovering from a fire in their international terminal). What a welcome change! Over the next few days, we discovered that Istanbul is large and modern, and is filled with culture and history.

The first day was action-packed. I was eager to have my freedom back after being on a guided safari for 10 days. As soon as we dropped off our luggage, we set off on a whirlwind tour of the Grand Bazaar, the Blue Mosque, and the Hagia Sofia. The architecture of these places is gorgeous, especially in the interior details of the Hagia Sofia.

Inside the Hagia Sopia
The iconic Blue Mosque
That night, we were delighted to be able to pick our own restaurant for dinner and to have the luxury of ordering whatever we wanted (food in the lodges in Kenya was nothing to write home about).  Everything was delicious! We finished off the night with Turkish delights from the Spice Market.

Day two was filled with even more delights. In the morning we visited Topkapi Palace, the primary residence of the Ottoman Sultans for 400 years. The highlight was the Harem which was much less crowded allowing us to appreciate it in peace. The decorative details are so beautiful and unlike anything else I've seen. We also visited many more mosques that day. The best treat of the day, though, was having traditional Turkish tea in a garden overlooking the Bosphorus River. To top it off, we visited the trendy Galata district across the Golden Horn in the evening. The view from the city from the Galata Tower is breathtaking. We walked down the large pedestrianized shopping street in the neighborhood, and ended up at Shake Shack for dinner! Yup, this was another busy day.
Inside the Harem, Topkapi Palace
Traditional Turkish tea - it was served in a concentrated form in the upper pot, with the lower pot filled with hot water, in case you preferred your tea a bit less strong. 
Panorama from atop the Galata Tower. It's hard to capture the 360-degree view.  
This pedestrianized shopping street is super lively and runs late into the night.
Where I got my new favorite shirt and dress. Dave only took this picture because he got really bored waiting for me inside the store - I like how it turned out. 
Unfortunately, we did have to leave Istanbul on a slightly sour note. On our way to the airport, we couldn't find a taxi because of the horrendous evening traffic. And when we finally got on one, we sat in on the same two blocks for about 45 minutes. Luckily, we gave ourselves lots of extra time to get to the airport. The worst part was our cab driver who not only drove like a maniac, but also grossly overcharged us.