Patagonia: Torres del Paine National Park

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Last country, last national park, and last hike of our 190-day trip.

We took a 5-hour bus from El Calafate, Argentina to Puerto Natales, Chile, where we stayed a day to stock up on food and get Chilean Pesos. From there, it's just over two hours into Torres del Paine National park.

The W Trek is a popular five day, four night hike through the park. It can be hiked from either direction, and can be done entirely in tents or by staying in Refugios, although they must be booked well in advance during peak season. Since we had all our camping and cooking equipment, we opted for the true backbacking experience.

Here's roughly our route:

Day 1: It was cloudy and rainy at times. A boat took us to the start of our hike at Refugio Paine Grande. Some hikers, who traverse the W in the reverse direction, camp here for a night. We headed up to Refugio Grey, about 4 hours away. 

Even on a cloudy day, the views of Lago Grey were spectacular. You can see the glacier flowing down the lake. The hike, though, was pretty long and tough, especially with our fully-loaded backpacks.

It was raining when we got to the campsite, so we opted to eat in the Refugio that night. The food was surprisingly good! Since it only get dark for a few hours a night this time of the year, we were able to go for a walk after dinner. About 20 minutes away, we got an even better view of the glacier, and found this iceburg floating in the lake.

Day 2: The day starts by back-tracking to where we started yesterday, Refugio Paine Grande. Like most refugios on the trek, it has a small convenience store, a cafeteria, and basic rooms. 

The sun came out for our traverse to Camp Site Italiano! This was a fairly easy, three hour stretch. In general, we found that the walks took us a little longer than what was listed in the guidebooks. Several of the days were very long!

Day 3: We left our backpacks at the campsite to explore Valle Frances this morning. It was a beautiful but windy day. I had my hat on to keep dust out of my hair. This is the view from about halfway up. 

Looking up the valley, there are mountains on all sides.

After picking up our backpacks from the campsite, we headed out for Refugio Cuernos. Most of the walk was along the shore of Lago Nordenskjold. You can see in this picture sheets of water being picked up by the wind. We got some good sprays when we were walking close to the shore. We also didn't realize the importance of picking a sheltered campsite. We choose one with views and ended up with sand everywhere in our tent. Good thing we only have one more camping night left on the trip.

Day 4: This is the view we woke up to this morning. We set out early for another long, and probably the most challenging, day on the trek. 

First, it was five hours of traversing across mostly flat terrain to Hosteria Las Torres. No biggie, just a few river crossings.

The harder part came in the afternoon, when we had to trek up to the Torres Camp Site. Most of this 4-5 hour hike was fairly steep. Thankfully our backpacks are much lighter now. We hiked up so that we can be close the Mirador las Torres the next morning. Watching the sunrise over Torres del Paine (what the park is named after) is supposed to be the highlight of the trek.

Day 5: Our bodies were exhausted by this point. Every muscle was felt worn out. And I was sick of eating crackers, cookies, and chocolates. But we were up by 3am today! Time to catch the famous sunrise at Mirador las Torres!

It was a steep, one hour trek up from our campsite (although I'm pretty sure I was the slowest person on the trail that morning). At 3am and at a higher elevation, it was well below zero degrees celcius. Sadly, at the top, the towers were hidden behind a layer of clouds. This was the clearest view we had - not too bad. 

The way down was so much easier.

We made it to Hotel Las Torres, where we would catch the bus out of the park! We treated ourselves to some beer, pizza, and a (pretty sad) salad with the rest of our Chilean Pesos. This is where you would stay if you didn't want to rough it at all. The hotel offers day hikes and horseback riding in the Park. But then again, why would you spend so much time getting to the remote Torres del Paine National Park if you are not going to spend at least a few days emersed in nature?

After 190 days on the road, this is by far the fittest and darkest that I have ever been in my life. The W trek is not for first time hikers - it requires much more stamina than the Milford Trek in New Zealand. As my first time on a self-sufficient backpacking trip (i.e. carrying our own tent and sleeping bag, food, stove), I really loved the experience! I can't wait to go on more packpacking trips back in the US. 

Patagonia: El Chalten and El Calafate

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Patagonia is a sparsely populated region of over one million square kilometers occupying Southern Argentina and Chile. From Buenos Aires, it's either a three hour flight or thirty-four hour drive to El Calafate, one of the only transportation hubs in Patagonia. We opted for the flight (courtesy of Delta miles), plus a three hour bus ride to the neighboring town of El Chalten, where our Patagonian adventure begins.

We went for a short walk that afternoon, just outside of the town. This picture perfectly captures how beautiful the scenary was, although it looks deceptively calm. Patagonia is notorious for its wind, and that day was no exception.

The real hiking, which is why we came to Patagonia, started the next morning. On this day hike in the Fitz Roy range, we got a perfectly clear view of Cerro Torre. Unfortunately, the wind prevented us from lingering in this beautiful spot.

On the way back into town, we got the perfect photo opportunity to capture the essence of El Chalten. It's remote and peaceful, but has every you would want in a small town - welcoming lodges, handy grocery and souveneir shops, and delicious family-run restaurants (including a brewery!). El Chalten is just as beautiful as any Scandanavian village we visited earlier on the trip, only everything here costs a fraction as much. And daylight never seems to end here in December.

Somewhere along the way, we found this woodpecker posing for the camera. Wildlife, for the most part, is is a rare sight this extreme climate.

Next stop in Patagonia: El Calafate.

Known for the Perito Moreno Glacier nearby, El Calafate is a much more developed tourist town, lacking in charm in comparison to El Chalten. Nevertheless, the glacier did not disappoint. As is it one of the few advancing glaciers in the world, we spent hours watching and listening for chunks of ice falling off of the glacier.

Up close, you can see all sorts of interesting formations and cravasses in the ice.

To give a sense of scale, and just how close we got to the glacier, here I am on one of the viewing pathways. There was no need for the boat tour that was offered. On foot, we were able to linger and really appreciate the grandeur of El Perito Moreno.

Even though I'm not usually a fan of overly touristy destinations, El Perito Moreno was one of the highlights of our trip. It's beautifully set up, with numerous walking paths that allow visitors to enjoy this natural wonder. We've seen glaciers in Alaska, Iceland, Norway, Nepal, New Zealand...but this is by far the most impressive.

Tomorrow, we head to Chile for Torres del Paine National Park and the W Trek - also the last stop on our trip!

Buenos Aires

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We were almost going to skip South America on this trip - it was extremely difficult to get from Australia/New Zealand to South America. There are a couple of (long) direct flights, but they weren't cheap. You get creative, though, when you really want to do something. I managed to use my Delta Skymiles for a leg from Syndey to New York, with a stopover in Buenos Aires, for 30,000 points!

It was our first time in South America. We really wanted to go to Patagonia, so it made sense to stay in Argentina for most of our two weeks here. Buenos Aires, our first stop in South America, isn't exactly how I had imagined the continent to be like. The city is very big and modern - not too different from any major North American or European capital.

We were there during the short time in the spring when jacaranda flowers fill the city with splashes of purple. This is one of the many lovely plazas in Buenos Aires.

The best way to see the city is to walk. We ran into the new developments of Puerto Madero on the eastern side of this canal, towards Río de la Plata. The tall skyscrappers going up are in huge contrast to the old warehouses on the other side.

Food was so good and cheap (cheap being a great change after Australia). This taqueria in the trendy and residential Palermo district offered a delicious lunch break. A quick reminder that we're not in New York came at the end of the meal. David's camera almost got stolen from right under his arm when a motorcyclist on the side walk tried to snatch it. We were quick to react and saved our favorite device.

This was the first of several juicy steaks we enjoyed in Argentina. Although we heard that beef is not as good as it used to be in Argentina, it still tasted pretty good to us! A good steak dinner with a  bottle of wine runs around $30 USD.

We took a quick daytrip to the neighboring Colonia, Uraguay, a short ferry ride away. Finally, we got a taste of South America! This place is so laid back, with locals hanging out on the streets and buildings that haven't changed in hundreds of years.

There's not a whole lot to do in Colonia other than walking around the Old Town and taking pictures of cute streets. And of course, eat a very slow lunch. It's a relaxing getaway from Buenos Aires. We relaxed so much that we missed our return ferry while napping in the park (beware: there's a one-hour time difference between Buenos Aires and Colonia!).

On the bright side, we caught a thunderstorm from our later ferry, and got this perfect rainbow!

On our last day in Buenos Aires, we explored the Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur, a reserve on the eastern side of the city, and La Boca, a lively neighborhood famous for it's colorful houses and high crime rates. Sadly, we lost our pictures from that day, although I'm not too disappointing that it's the only pictures we lost on a seven-month trip. 

Sydney & Vicinity

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After our 20-days away in New Zealand, we've returned to Australia, and were greeted with beautiful sunny weather in Sydney. We stayed one night at the Westin, and got to see a good chunk of the city.

The harbor was the highlight for us. We walked around both sides of it - you can cross over the Sydney Harbour Bridge (pictured in the background) to the more residential neighborhoods of North Sydney; just like the Brooklyn bridge in New York!

We found the perfect after-work hang out spot, outside the Sydney Opera House. It was packed, but we managed to snag a table for drinks and a quick bite.

Downtown Sydney reminds me a lot of Lower Manhattan. It's compact, filled with skyscrappers, and has a historic district (the Rocks) with small lanes and old buildings.

Bondi Beach is just a few miles away from Downtown. It's a lively community filled with million dollar apartments with views. There's a great walkway along the water.

After our short stay in Sydney, we ventured out to the quieter region of the Blue Mountains, a couple of hours west of Sydney. Pictured here is the Three Sisters, an iconic rock formation in the mountains. They were formed by erosion of the sandstone around the columns. Apparently, there used to be a few more sisters that have been completed eroded away. Day-hikes here were great!

We completed the Sydney circuit with a couple of days at the beach, just south of Sydney. We relaxed at this beach in Jervis Bay for a few hours one afternoon. It was the most isolated of the spots we found, and as far south as we went before returning to Sydney for our intercontinental flight.

Overall, I think the Sydney region is the most livable of all the places we visited on the trip! The city itself is like a smaller version of New York, and there's so much to do around it. If I can manage to work and live here for a year, I definitely would. 

Milford Track

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The Milford Track, a four-day hike amidst mountains and temperate rain forest in Fiordland National Park in the southwest of the South Island, was one of the most highly anticipated parts of our trip. We reserved our spots almost a year in advance, since the only ~30 people are permitted to start the trail each day. It was my very first multi-day hike!

Day 1: Glade Wharf to Clinton Hut

The first day starts with a boat ride across Lake Te Anau. There were two groups of ~30 starting with us that day - one group was part of the guided trek, which provides meals and decent accomodations to its participants; the other group, which we were in, trekked independently, stayed in basic lodges and made our own food.

From the other side of the lake, it was a short and easy two-hour hike to Glade House, where we spent our first night. The lodge was basic - three simple cabins were filled with bunk beds with matresses for your sleeping bag. There's a separate cooking cabin with benches and stoves. There was a helipad by each of the lodges for supplies.

Day 2: Clinton Hut to Mintaro Hut

The scenary for the first two days was pretty much the same. We walked on a well-marked trail through a rainforest, which often opened up to beautiful mountain and river views. The trail was mostly flat, climbing about 300 meters today. Six hours later, we arrived at Mintaro Hut. 

The rainforest was magical. Everything is lush and covered in moss. Apparently, when there's no rain in 7+ days, all the moss curl up and the place looks really different.

We were greeted by keas at the second lodge. These birds are super smart and aggressive - they'll eat anything food you leave out, and pick at your belongings. We were told to keep our packs closed and our boots hung up.

Day 3: Mintaro Hut to Dumpling Hut

This is the big day! We crossed over Mackinnon Pass to get to the over side of the valley. The hike up was moderate. The path was good and not too steep. Even though the highest part of the pass is only 100m, we got great views in all directions! The day was calm, sunny and warm.

On the way down, an 1.5hr side trail took us to Sutherland Falls. At 580m, it's the tallest waterfall in New Zealand. If you want to get soaked, try going behind the falls for a minute.

This was by far the longest day - took us about 10 hours from start to finish, although we did take many breaks.

Day 4: Dumpling Hut to Sandfly Point

The number of sandflies had been increasing each day on the trail, and had become unbearable by Day 4. The end of the hike is apted named Sandfly Point. We tried taking a picture there, but couldn't stop waving bugs out of face long enough for a good one. There were beautiful waterfalls on the last day though!

At a total of 53.5km, the Milford Track is a pretty easy four-day hike. Plus, it's made easier by having lodges and cooking facilities each night, greatly reducing the weight of our backpacks. Water along the trail is perfectly good to drink. We only had to carry our own food, cloths, and camera equipment.

Ever since signing up for the hike, my biggest fear was encountering lots of rain on the trail. Receiving 268in of rain annually, Milford Sound is known as the wettest inhabited place in New Zealand and one of the wettest in the world. At least a few times a year, the trails get completely flooded - hikers are forced to stay extra nights in the lodges until water levels falls. As you can see from our pictures though, we had beautiful weather all four days! In fact, we didn't see a drop of rain, and most days were beautifully sunny, especially the day when we crossed over Mackinnon Pass. Maybe we'll get to use our rain gear in Patagonia next month?

Lake Wanaka, Queenstown, and Te Anau

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The Queenstown region of Southern New Zealand is one of favorites from the trip. It's a lot like the Colorado ski towns, but much more accessible and affordable. We were there in early summer, and it offered beautiful hiking and scenary.

The main part of Queenstown is filled with restaurants and bars, like you would find in any ski town. All of it was pretty new and modern. The backdrop of the city, whereever you look, is mountains and lakes.

There are hiking trails everywhere. You can easily find a hike near by that suits your schedule and ability. We picked a hike impromptu each day, and every one of them was beautiful. We didn't do anything challenging because we're saving our energy for the upcoming Milford Track.

Plus, if you're tired of hiking, there are just as many scenic drives. In fact, most of the roads we traveled on in New Zealand were beautiful, although this region wins for the best of New Zealand.

Look how gorgeous the backgroud is! Dave looks extra handsome in the foreground. I can't believe a place like this is so accessible. Wouldn't it be great if New York had this nearby?

Here we are making a roadside stop because it was just too gorgeous!

I would love to come back here for some skiing in the winter!

Finally, I'd like to share a few interesting observations about New Zealand so far:

• Each destination is only an hour or two from the next! The islands are compact and filled with sights. This is the opposite of Australia, where we had to fly to get places. 
• New Zealand has the best residential real estate market ever. Most houses are big and modern, and even the ones with great views are supprisingly afforable. 
• Despite most things modern about the country, New Zealand is one of the worst countries for Wifi. Free public wifi is extremely rare. Plus, Wifi hotspots often have a ridiculous 50mb usage limit.